Wat Arun, the Temple of Dawn, is one of Bangkok's best
know landmark. It stands on the west bank of the Chao Phraya River in Thon
Buri. Wat Arun is best seen from the opposite bank of the river; it glistens
in the sunlight during the day and stands dark and noble at dawn or dusk.
A visit to the beautiful, peaceful monastery complex surrounding the familiar
towers is very worth-while. These towers, the "Phra Prang," although
best known, the only part of Wat Arun. It also contains narrow lanes; elegant,
old white buildings; shrines, pools of turtles; and two fine giants, "
Yuk Wat Jaeng," mortal enemies of the " Yuk Wat Po" across
the river.
The monastery has existed for many years since the days when Ayutthaya was
capital of Thailand. It was then named Wat Mokok, situated in a place called
Tumbol Bangmakok. The word Bangmakok, meaning " Village of Olive",
has since been shortened to " Makok".
When King Taksin and his army reached this place to build his new capital
Thonburi, after defeating the Burmese who had sacked Ayutthaya, he arrived
at dawn. He renamed the monastery he found there Wat Jaeng- Jaeng meaning
"clear", "bright" and Construction of the tall prang
and four smaller ones was started by King Rama II 1809-1824 and completed
by King Rama III (1824-1851). The towers are supported by rows of demos
and monkeys. Very steep and narrow steps lead to a balcony high on the central
tower. The circumference of the base of the structure is 234 meters, and
the central prang is 250 foot high.
The central balcony commands an impressive view of Bangkok across the river.
From here one can see the Grand palace, the Temple of the Emerald Buddha
and the spacious Wat Po.
The towers of Wat Arun are built of brick covered with stucco. The decorations
are unique; thousands of pieces of multicolored Chinese porcelain. In niches
in the central tower are green figures of the God Indra seated on Erawan,
the traditional Thai three-headed elephant. Niches in the smaller towers
contain figures of the Moon God, on a white horse. The trident of Shiva
extends from the top of each tower.
Wat Arun figures in one of Thailand's most colorful festival, the Royal
Tod Kathin. Then His Majesty the King travels down the river in a procession
of Royal barges to present new robes to the monks after their three-month
lent period.
Ordination Hall
The original hall built during the time of King Rama II was in the late
Ayutthaya style. Later the structure became elongated, similar to the style
of King Rama I, with redented pillars. They bear
elongated lotus capitals lacquered and gilt. The bases of the pillar are
raised on platforms. The ordination hall was built of brick and mortar with
roof of wooden beams and ceremic tiles. The gable board is gilded and decorated
with glass mosaic. The walls between the windows bear murals of the ten
previous lives of the Buddha. Above the windows on the northern side, the
mural paintings are from the life of the Buddha. In the south is Vessantara
Jataka. The originals were destroyed by fire in the reign of Rama V. He
had them redone in relatively modern style. The face of the presiding Buddha
image, cast in the reign of Rama II, is said to have been moulded by His
Majesty himself. The ashes of King Rama II are buried in the base of the
image. In front of the hall is a throne between the two doors. The throne
is of very decoratively carved wood-work, gilded and decorated with glass
mosaic. Before the ordination hall at the entrance stand two demon guadians;
the white one called Sahassa Decha and the green one Thosakan ( or Ravana),
both of which are of stucco decorated with shards of coloured ceramics.
They are similar to the demons in the temple of the Emerald Buddha. Those
of Wat Arun date from the time of King Rama III.
Phra Wihan Khot ( Gallery or Cloister)
This was built around the ordination hall during the time of King Ram II,
of brick and mortar with roof of ceramic tiles. There are rows of Buddha
images insides the gallery in the style of Subduing Mara which date from
King Rama II's period. The portals on four sides are very pleasingly designed.
Pillars are topped with gilded lotuses. Between the pillars and the body
of the building there are stone images made by Chinese artists. They were
brought from China as balast in trading junks. The royal artist, Prince
Naris praised this gallery as the most perfect of its kind.
Phar Wihan
This is an original Thon Buri period hall, reconstructed in the time of
Rama II. King Rama II ordered the decoration of the outer walls with ceramic
tiles in falling floral pattern. There are two significant Bussha images
inside this hall; the main image cast in copper contains a relic of the
Buddha in its breast; the smaller bronze placed in front of the first was
brought from Vientiane in A.D. 1858.
Phar Prang
This is the most important monument in the temple. King Rama II considered
that the original prang which was 16 meters in height should be reconstructed
as the glory of the city, but he passed away shortly after the beginning
the task. King Rama III completed the structure and crowned it with a multi-pronged
bronze pinnacle. He died before the edifice could be dedicated.
This task was performed by Rama IV. It is 81 meters high and is surrounded
by smaller prangs and mondops on each side and in between. The Phra Buddha
Prang, as the great central tower is called, has three circumambulatory
galleries running around it, which can be reached by climbing any one of
the four very steep staircases. Above each staircase there is a niche with
a figure of Indra on his three-headed elephant
Erawan. T he crown on the summit was origonally made to be given to the
presiding Buddha image at Wat Nang Nong. When the nine pronged finial was
to be raised, King Rama III ordered the crown to be placed above it. It
was rumoured then that this action of his was a sign indication to the people
the " Prince Mongkut" ( meaning " Crown") was to succeed
him. Prince Mongkut did indeed become Rma IV. Four small prangs surround
the main one in the centre. Statues of Phra Phai, the wind-god on his white
horse are placed in each niche on these. Statues of giants and monkeys support
the Mondop and the five Prangs as Caryatides. Kinnaras and Kinnaris are
set in relief in niches all the way round of the first gallery.
On the ground around the prangs there are Chinese scultures both in the
forms of human beings and animals. In the eartern wall there are three gates
and two along the western wall. On the top of these
five gates the royal emblems of each king from King Rama I to King Rama
V are to be seen. On the forth base of circumambulation are four replicas
of the prang at each of the corners. e all decorated with pieces of broken
porcelain of varieties of colours. Some are in Thai-style flame patterns
while others are in the form of flowers. Bencharong ware is also used to
decorate the surface of the prang. This type of decoration on the surface
of architecture has been popular since the time of King Rama III.
The small Wihans
There are two of these both of which are in front of the prang and date
from the Thon Buri period. The one in the north used to be the ordination
hall and now contains the royal couch of the King of Thon Buri made of one
huge plank of teak. The Wihan in the south is older than the one in the
north. At present a relic is enshrined here. On the door panels are gilt
lacquer paintings depicting soldiers wearing hats and holding guns. These
show workmanship of the time ofKing Rama V.
The Bell Tower
This stands behind the wihans. It is in Chinese style.
The Mondop of the Buddha's Foot-Print
Rama III commanded this miniature of the foot-print of the Buddha to be
placed in this mondop which is decorated with pieces of broken porcelain
on all sides. The roof in the traditional style.
The Group of Monk' Cells
These buildings are in brick and mortar and are the work of King Rama III's
craftsmen.
The Pavilion by the River
This stands in front of the ordination Hall. The arrangement of stones in
the garden near the river is very beautiful. There are rows of stupas around
this garden. There are also Chinese stone scultures in the forms of soldiers
holding weapons, garudas and kinnaris. Beside these there are statues of
Nai Rueng and Nai Nok in front of the Ordination Hall. These men burned
themselves to death hoping to attain Nirvana. On the base there is an inscription
relating the story of these two men
Monkut Entrance
The entrance before the ordination Hall with tiered roof in the form of
a crown flanked by a pair of demons, the white one named Sahassa Decha and
the green one Thosakan ( Ravana). Thosakan, the green demon stucco decorated
with glazed ceramic tile. One of the four small prangs at each corner of
the main prang. Below left is Phra Wihan. The Mondop is in the centre and
next to the right stands the Ordination Hall. The boundary stone. The two
Small Wihan, the one in the norht used to be the ordination hall, the south
one is the original wihan. Verandah of the Ordination Hall adorned with
the coloured glazed tiles in floral and leaf design. The lotus capital are
in glided lacquer. The plaza around the Hall decorated with stone figures
of Chinese men and lions. Phra Phuttharup Narumit, the standing Buddha image
dedicated to King Rama II, installed in the front porch of the Ordination
Hall. The paintings on door panels illustrating ythical trees that bear
the woman-like fruits. The presiding Buddha image cast in the reign of King
Rama II
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